Palawan: The Country's Last Frontier ~ The World Around Us

The Philippines, touted to be the “Pearl of the Orient Seas,” has more than 7,000 islands. More than a thousand of these can be found in Palawan, situated in the southwest part of the country.

“Palawan is the largest province in the Philippines,” writes Conrado M. Lancion, Jr. in his book, Fast Facts About Philippine Provinces. “Stretching 650 kilometers from tip to tip, it is composed of 1,780 islands and islets.”

Its three major island groups are Calamian in the north, Dumaran-Cuyo in the northeast, and Balabac-Bugsok in the south. The main island is 425 kilometers long. It has a width of 40 kilometers at its widest at Brooke’s Point, and eight and one-half kilometers at its narrowest in Bahile, Puerto Princesa.

“Tall mountain ranges bisect the province into eastern and western coasts,” describes Lancion in his book. “The mountains average about 1,100 meters in elevation. The east coast has narrow beaches and swampy shorelines, backed by plains and short valleys. The west coast is more rugged, with mountains rising up neat the sea and narrow lowlands.”

Palawan is known as having one of the most beautiful seascapes in the world. Sprawled beneath the seas are nearly 11,000 square kilometers of coral reefs.Palawan was proclaimed as a fish and wildlife sanctuary in 1967 and to this day, this group of islands is probably the most protected province in the whole country.

In a special report on travel, Time noted: “As global flourishes, the little-trodden paths have become superhighways. Where can we escape the crush? Where can we still find some sense of wonder or mystery?”

If that question is asked among Filipinos, Palawan would be most likely answer. After all, Palawan is dubbed as the country’s last frontier. Name it and Palawan is most likely to have it: historical sights, cultural experiences, wonderful beaches, eco-tourism spots for diving, snorkeling, trekking or just simple nature-tripping.

Heading the campaign to make the province as one – if not the top – of the country’s ecotourism destination is environment-friendly is Edward S. Hagedorn, the mayor of the capital Puerto Princesa. For doing so, he was bestowed with the United Nations Global 500 Roll of Honour Award in 1997 at Seoul, South Korea.

“Trees are refuge to many living creatures, and each has a role to play in life. Thus the clean and green as well as the regreening projects are very important to be carried out by whoever sits as mayor,” says the country’s first political leader who focused on environmental protection.

One reason why people come to Palawan is the world-famous St. Paul Subterranean National Park, a massive white rock mountain which rises 1,028 meters above sea level and stretches towards Cleopatra’s Needle. Its main feature is the underground river, with its 8.2 kilometers of labyrinthine caves carved by rainwater and the waves of South China Sea.

The Subterranean River is a maze of intricate caves and endless wonders. Once inside, you can enjoy seeing myriad of rock formations which resembles to real things like giant mushrooms and jellyfish, a huge madre de cacao, a man and his dog, skeletal stalactites that look like filigrees.

The park, which sits on a 5,000-hectare area, can be reached after a two-hour drive from the capital city and a 30 to 45-minute boat ride from Sabang wharf. Cave entrance fee costs P150 for locals and P200 for foreigners.

If you happen to be in Coron, visit the Mount Tapyas Environmental Park. Some 30-minute trek from the town proper, Mt. Tapyas provides a breathtaking view of the island, the residential areas, the commercial buildings, the greenery of Coron and the road to Busuanga. A staircase of hundred steps leads to the spacious view deck with a giant cross on top of the mount.

In Busuanga, don’t miss the Calauit Safari Park. This 3,760-hectare island shelters exotic animals from Kenya, Africa for breeding and propagation like the giraffe, zebra, gazelle, topi, eland, bushbuck and waterbuck combined with endemic species like the Calamian deer, Palawan bear cat, wild boar, mousedeer, peacocks among others. The island boasts of sandy beach surrounded by crystalline waters that serve as a habitat for the endangered sea cows, sea turtles and giant clams.

There are two more destinations you should not miss: El Nido and Honda Bay. El Nido is the place with crystal clear waters and many wonderful dive spots with first class resorts. It is named after the nests harvested from the islands’ limestone caverns and exported to some countries to be consumed in bird’s nest soup.

Just 30 minutes from the capital city is Honda Bay. You can take a boat and beach hop the dozens of beaches on the islets that dot the bay. What you can do? Nothing, except swimming, snorkeling, diving or just relaxing on the beach amidst the clear waters and fine sand.

For divers, Palawan is a paradise. The mideast part of Honda Bay area is studded with coral patches up to 18 meters across, interspersed with sand patches. There are plenty of small reef fish, parrot fish, snappers, and sometimes crayfish. Because the area is inconsistent, the tourism department urges divers to carry a compass.

At the north side of Cuyo Islands, you can find the wreck of an American LST that went down following the Battle of Mindoro during World War II. After it was hit off San Jose, the vessel was brought by its crew to Cuyo. It later slipped into deeper water with its bow ramp open.

In Busuanga Island lies the wreck of the Japanese cargo ship sunk by American submarines during World War II. The cargo ship was on its way to Leyte Gulf from Japan, lade with war materials for the beleaguered Japanese forces during the Battle of Leyte Gulf.

But the famous of all divesites is the Tubbataha Reef Marine Park, declared by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization as a World Heritage Site. Covering 33,200 hectares, including the North and South Reefs, the park is a well-preserved example of an atoll reef with a high density of marine species. Seagulls and giant turtles abound. It is 10 to 12 hours by boat from Puerto Princesa.

If history is your thing, visit the Tabon Caves Complex, located in Lipuun Point Reservation. This 138-hectare land connected to the mainland by isthmus covered with mangrove forest can be reached within 20-30 minutes by pump boat from Quezon wharf. Currently, there are about 215 caves and rock shelters in the caves complex. Thirty are found to have archeological significance.

According to Lancion, Palawan was believed to be a land bridge that connected Borneo and Mindoro. “Malaya from Borneo probably used this land bridge, and later the sea, to settle in Palawan,” he wrote.

The origin of the name “Palawan” has several versions. Some said it comes from the Chinese word, Pa-lao-yu which means “land of beautiful harbors.” Others said it was from the Indian word Palaws, meaning “territory.” Few postulated it was derived from a plant which natives called palwa. Most believed the name stemmed from the Spanish word paragua, because the main island’s shape resembles a closed umbrella.

In 1902, the Americans reportedly established the province of Paragua, with Cuyo as its capital. Three years later, the name was changed to Palawan and the capital transferred to Puerto Princesa.

What are you waiting for? Don’t worry about where to stay; there are many hotels of different classes, inns, and pension houses. Some standard class hotels are The Legend Hotel, Airport Hotel, Asturias Hotel, and Hotel Fleuris. Staying in one of the world class resorts here is a good idea if you want to be closer to wonderful nature scenes.

You will never find it hard to look for a place to eat. The hotel or resort you’re staying in will likely have a bar or restaurant where you can grab a bite. In Puerto Princesa, you may also find your usual fast food.

How do you get there? Airlines that fly from Manila to Puerto Princesa include Philippine Airlines, Air Philippines, Zest Airways, and Cebu Pacific. Flying time is one hour and ten minutes. South East Asian Airlines fly to El Nido, Busuanga, Taytay and Cuyo. Shipping companies have regular boat trips of at least 3 times a week. -- ###