Palawan: The Country's Last Frontier

The Philippines, touted to be the “Pearl of the Orient Seas,” has more than 7,000 islands.  More than a thousand of these can be found in Palawan, situated in the southwest part of the country.

“Palawan is the largest province in the Philippines,” writes Conrado M. Lancion, Jr. in his book, Fast Facts About Philippine Provinces.  “Stretching 650 kilometers from tip to tip, it is composed of 1,780 islands and islets.”

Its three major island groups are Calamian in the north, Dumaran-Cuyo in the northeast, and Balabac-Bugsok in the south.  The main island is 425 kilometers long.  It has a width of 40 kilometers at its widest at Brooke’s Point, and eight and one-half kilometers at its narrowest in Bahile, Puerto Princesa.

“Tall mountain ranges bisect the province into eastern and western coasts,” describes Lancion in his book.  “The mountains average about 1,100 meters in elevation.  The east coast has narrow beaches and swampy shorelines, backed by plains and short valleys.  The west coast is more rugged, with mountains rising up neat the sea and narrow lowlands.”

Palawan is known as having one of the most beautiful seascapes in the world. Sprawled beneath the seas are nearly 11,000 square kilometers of coral reefs.Palawan was proclaimed as a fish and wildlife sanctuary in 1967 and to this day, this group of islands is probably the most protected province in the whole country.

In a special report on travel, Time noted: “As global flourishes, the little-trodden paths have become superhighways.  Where can we escape the crush?  Where can we still find some sense of wonder or mystery?”

If that question is asked among Filipinos, Palawan would be most likely answer.  After all, Palawan is dubbed as the country’s last frontier.  Name it and Palawan is most likely to have it: historical sights, cultural experiences, wonderful beaches, eco-tourism spots for diving, snorkeling, trekking or just simple nature-tripping. 

Heading the campaign to make the province as one – if not the top – of the country’s ecotourism destination is environment-friendly is Edward S. Hagedorn, the mayor of the capital Puerto Princesa.  For doing so, he was bestowed with the United Nations Global 500 Roll of Honour Award in 1997 at Seoul, South Korea.

“Trees are refuge to many living creatures, and each has a role to play in life.  Thus the clean and green as well as the regreening projects are very important to be carried out by whoever sits as mayor,” says the country’s first political leader who focused on environmental protection.

One reason why people come to Palawan is the world-famous St. Paul Subterranean National Park, a massive white rock mountain which rises 1,028 meters above sea level and stretches towards Cleopatra’s Needle.  Its main feature is the underground river, with its 8.2 kilometers of labyrinthine caves carved by rainwater and the waves of South China Sea.

The Subterranean River is a maze of intricate caves and endless wonders.  Once inside, you can enjoy seeing myriad of rock formations which resembles to real things like giant mushrooms and jellyfish, a huge madre de cacao, a man and his dog, skeletal stalactites that look like filigrees.

The park, which sits on a 5,000-hectare area, can be reached after a two-hour drive from the capital city and a 30 to 45-minute boat ride from Sabang wharf. Cave entrance fee costs P150 for locals and P200 for foreigners.

If you happen to be in Coron, visit the Mount Tapyas Environmental Park.  Some 30-minute trek from the town proper, Mt. Tapyas provides a breathtaking view of the island, the residential areas, the commercial buildings, the greenery of Coron and the road to Busuanga.  A staircase of hundred steps leads to the spacious view deck with a giant cross on top of the mount.                           

In Busuanga, don’t miss the Calauit Safari Park.  This 3,760-hectare island shelters exotic animals from Kenya, Africa for breeding and propagation like the giraffe, zebra, gazelle, topi, eland, bushbuck and waterbuck combined with endemic species like the Calamian deer, Palawan bear cat, wild boar, mousedeer, peacocks among others.  The island boasts of sandy beach surrounded by crystalline waters that serve as a habitat for the endangered sea cows, sea turtles and giant clams. 

There are two more destinations you should not miss: El Nido and Honda Bay.  El Nido is the place with crystal clear waters and many wonderful dive spots with first class resorts.  It is named after the nests harvested from the islands’ limestone caverns and exported to some countries to be consumed in bird’s nest soup.

Just 30 minutes from the capital city is Honda Bay.  You can take a boat and beach hop the dozens of beaches on the islets that dot the bay.   What you can do? Nothing, except swimming, snorkeling, diving or just relaxing on the beach amidst the clear waters and fine sand.

For divers, Palawan is a paradise.  The mideast part of Honda Bay area is studded with coral patches up to 18 meters across, interspersed with sand patches.  There are plenty of small reef fish, parrot fish, snappers, and sometimes crayfish. Because the area is inconsistent, the tourism department urges divers to carry a compass.

At the north side of Cuyo Islands, you can find the wreck of an American LST that went down following the Battle of Mindoro during World War II.  After it was hit off San Jose, the vessel was brought by its crew to Cuyo.  It later slipped into deeper water with its bow ramp open.

In Busuanga Island lies the wreck of the Japanese cargo ship sunk by American submarines during World War II.  The cargo ship was on its way to Leyte Gulf from Japan, lade with war materials for the beleaguered Japanese forces during the Battle of Leyte Gulf.

But the famous of all divesites is the Tubbataha Reef Marine Park, declared by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization as a World Heritage Site.  Covering 33,200 hectares, including the North and South Reefs, the park is a well-preserved example of an atoll reef with a high density of marine species.  Seagulls and giant turtles abound.  It is 10 to 12 hours by boat from Puerto Princesa.

If history is your thing, visit the Tabon Caves Complex, located in Lipuun Point Reservation.  This 138-hectare land connected to the mainland by isthmus covered with mangrove forest can be reached within 20-30 minutes by pump boat from Quezon wharf.  Currently, there are about 215 caves and rock shelters in the caves complex.  Thirty are found to have archeological significance.

According to Lancion, Palawan was believed to be a land bridge that connected Borneo and Mindoro.  “Malaya from Borneo probably used this land bridge, and later the sea, to settle in Palawan,” he wrote.

The origin of the name “Palawan” has several versions.  Some said it comes from the Chinese word, Pa-lao-yu which means “land of beautiful harbors.”  Others said it was from the Indian word Palaws, meaning “territory.”  Few postulated it was derived from a plant which natives called palwa.  Most believed the name stemmed from the Spanish word paragua, because the main island’s shape resembles a closed umbrella.

In 1902, the Americans reportedly established the province of Paragua, with Cuyo as its capital.  Three years later, the name was changed to Palawan and the capital transferred to Puerto Princesa.

What are you waiting for?  Don’t worry about where to stay; there are many hotels of different classes, inns, and pension houses.   Some standard class hotels are The Legend Hotel, Airport Hotel, Asturias Hotel, and Hotel Fleuris. Staying in one of the world class resorts here is a good idea if you want to be closer to wonderful nature scenes.

You will never find it hard to look for a place to eat. The hotel or resort you’re staying in will likely have a bar or restaurant where you can grab a bite. In Puerto Princesa, you may also find your usual fast food.

How do you get there? Airlines that fly from Manila to Puerto Princesa include Philippine Airlines, Air Philippines, Zest Airways, and Cebu Pacific.  Flying time is one hour and ten minutes. South East Asian Airlines fly to El Nido, Busuanga, Taytay and Cuyo.  Shipping companies have regular boat trips of at least 3 times a week. -- ###

Text and Photos by Henrylito D. Tacio

Additional Photos by Paul F. Llanos

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Philippines, My Philippines!

“Nuestro perdido Eden,” wrote national hero Jose P. Rizal. “The pearl of the Orient Seas,” hailed some historical scribes. “The second-largest archipelago in the world,” writes The Lonely Planet, which also described the country as “one of the great treasures of Southeast Asia.”

Welcome to the Philippines, my native land. “Often overlooked by travelers because of its location on the ‘wrong’ side of the South China Sea, the Philippines rewards those who go the extra distance to reach it,” The Lonely Planet notes. “And because it’s off the beaten path, the Philippines is a great place to escape the hordes who descend on other parts of Southeast Asia.”

The Philippines comprises 7,107 islands, with Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao as the three main islands. The total length of its coastlines is 36,289 kilometers or twice that of the United States. Most of its islands are “abound with white-sand beaches, exotic tropical vegetation and beautiful lakes and rivers,” wrote All-Asia Travel Guide.

With a total land area of 104,688 square kilometers, Luzon is the world’s 17th largest island (excluding continental masses of lands like Australia). Mindanao is the 19th largest island as it has a total land area of 94,631 square kilometers.

The Philippines is home to some of the world’s marvelous creations. The Banaue Rice Terraces in Ifugao has been called the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” The total outline of this architectural wonder, or “stairways to the sky,” is about 13,500 miles long, or about half the globe’s circumference and ten times the length of the Great Wall of China.

Mayon Volcano in Albay has the distinction of having the world’s most perfect cone. Upon seeing the Bicol landmark in 1903, distinguished British traveler-writer A. Henry Savage Landor wrote: “Mayon is the most beautiful mountain I have ever seen, the world-renowned Fujiyama (Mt. Fuji) of Japan sinking into perfect insignificance by comparison.”

Another global record: Taal Volcano, a 406-meter-high crater, is said to be the world’s smallest volcano. It is described as “a crater within an island within a lake” because it stands as an island at Taal Lake. The lake was formed after the volcano, with used to be much larger, collapsed.

Mount Apo, a dormant volcano situated in the boundaries of Davao City, Davao del Sur and North Cotabato, is the county’s highest peak (2,954 meters or 10,311 feet above sea level). Mount Apo is flat topped, with three peaks, and is capped by a 500-meter wide volcanic containing a small crater lake. Its name means “master” or “grandfather.”

Actually, there are 200 volcanoes in the country, 22 of them are said to be active. Camiguin, for instance, has more volcanoes than municipalities. The province has only five municipalities (Catarman, Guinisiliban, Mahinog, Mambajao, and Sagay) but it has seven volcanoes (Mount Vulcan Daan, Mount Mambajao, Mount Karling, Mount Uhay, Guinisiliban Peak, Tres Marias Mountain, and Mount Hibok-Hibok). As such, it has earned the distinction of having the most numbers of volcanoes per square kilometer than any other island on earth (it has a total land area of 238 square kilometers).

The world’s deepest part of the ocean is the Marianas Trench, which is over 11,000 meters below the sea level. This makes the Mindanao Trench as the world’s second deepest spot underwater. The spot, about 34,440 feet (10.497 meters) is in the floor of the Philippine Sea.

The Tubbataha Reefs is considered as the world’s richest bio-geographic area. In fact, it was declared by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization as a World Heritage Site. The two atolls are located 92 nautical miles southeast of Puerto Princesa City covering 33,200 hectares.

Also in Palawan is the world-famous St. Paul Subterranean National Park, a massive white rock mountain which rises 1,028 meters above sea level and stretches towards Cleopatra’s Needle. Its main feature is the underground river, with its 8.2 kilometers (five miles) of labyrinthine caves carved by rainwater and the waves of South China Sea.

The Philippines is also world famous for its Chocolate Hills in Bohol. It is a series of 1,268 perfectly symmetrical, haycock-shaped hills (each hill rises 30 to 120 meters above the surrounding plateau). A national geologic monument, the hills which are spread out in the towns of Carmen, Batuan and Sagbayan never fails to amaze guests and visitors.

The highest waterfalls in the country is Aliwagwag Falls in Cateel, Davao Oriental. It is a series of 84 falls (count them!) appearing like a “stairway to heaven” with various heights among the steps. One step is measured 72 feet and another is 67 feet. Overall, the falls is 1,100 feet of cascading energy and 20 meters in width – all these in the midst of a virgin forest.

Now, let’s talk about its people. Filipinos were introduced to the English language in 1762 by British invaders, not Americans. Today, the Philippines is the world’s third largest English-speaking country, next to the United States and United Kingdom.

Many foreigners have noted that the Filipino population has Asia’s highest rates of inventors and international beauty queens. Two Filipina beauties, Gloria Diaz and Margie Moran, were chosen as Miss Universe in 1969 and 1973, respectively. The Miss International crown was worn by Gemma Cruz in 1964, by Aurora Pijuan in 1970 and by Melanie Marquez in 1979.

Dr. Fe del Mundo, the first Asian to have entered the prestigious Harvard University’s School of Medicine, is credited for her studies that led to the invention of incubator and jaundice relieving device.

Dr. Abelardo Aguilar reportedly discovered the antibiotic erythromycin from the Aspergillus species of fungi in Iloilo in 1949. In 2000, Rolando dela Cruz developed an ingenuous formula that could easily remove deeply grown moles or warts from the skin without leaving marks or hurting the patient. The one-chip video camera was first made by Marc Loinaz, a Filipino inventor from New Jersey.

Pure- or part-Filipino celebrities in Hollywood include Dean Devlin, Von Flores, Tia Carrere, Paolo Montalban, Lea Salonga, Ernie Reyes Jr., Nia Peeples, Julio Iglesias Jr., Lou Diamond Phillips, Phoebe Cates and Rob Schneider.

The first Filipino act to land a top hit on the US Billboard Hot 100 chart in the 1960s was the group Rocky Fellers of Manila. Latina-American pop star Christina Aguilera lost to Filipina vocalist Josephine Roberto (also known as Banig) during the International Star Search years ago. In a mid-1999 MTV chat, she said that competing against someone of Banig’s age was “not fair.”

The first Asian and/or Filipino to snatch America’s Pulitzer Prize was Philippines Herald’s war correspondent Carlos P. Romulo in 1941. (He was also the first Asian to become United Nations Secretary-General.) The first two Filipino-Americans to garner the same award 56 years later were Seattle Times’ Alex Tizon and Byron Acohido, who is part-Korean.

“What’s still most impressive to me about the Philippines is the friendliness of the people, their sense of humor...,” wrote Honolulu journalist John Griffin in a 1998 visit to Manila.

This is what The Lonely Planet said: “Throughout the archipelago you’ll find people are friendly and curious, wanting to know where you’re from – often shouting out their guess at where you’re from – and where you’re heading. At times when you’re not feeling in the best mood yourself, for example when you and 25 others are squashed in the back of a jeepney built for 10, if you glance around you’ll always find lots of smiles and laughter that will instantly lighten your mood.”

Now, imagine a world without the Philippines! -- ###

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Davao City: The Gateway to Mindanao

From islands to highlands – that’s what awaits anyone who comes to Davao City. The center of trade and commerce in Mindanao, it is also the hub of tourist attractions and activities. Its typhoon-free weather, warm and hospitable people, and mouth-watering foods make Davao the perfect holiday spot for the entire family.

Davao is one of the world’s largest cities in terms of land area, occupying more than 2,400 square kilometers. It has a resident population of 1.3 million, who speak mostly Bisaya (the national language comes second). English is the medium of instruction in schools and is widely understood and spoken especially in the business community.

Davao is known for its three icons: durian, waling-waling, and Philippine eagle. Controversial durian, which “smells like hell but tastes like heaven,” abounds almost all-year round throughout the city. Endangered waling-waling can be viewed at Malagos Garden Resort in Calinan district (some 45 minutes ride from the heart of the city). Going up further, about five minutes, you can get a glimpse of the country’s national bird at the Philippine Eagle Center.

What are the other things you see while in Davao? If history is your thing, there’s the Battle Memorial, a historical marker of the longest-fought battle between the troops of the American and Filipino forces and of the Japanese Imperial Army which took place in Mintal, Tugbok.

In Calinan, there is a museum that features historical accounts of the Japanese community residing in Davao before and during the war. You can see various artifacts, including tools which they used in the abaca plantations, currencies, and publications.

Along San Pedro Street, you can visit Camp Domingo Leonor, which happened to be the quarters of the Spanish and later American soldiers in the 1920s. At the junction of Washington Street and Quimpo Boulevard, you can get a glimpse of site of the bastion of the Muslim hero Datu Bago who lorded over the Tagloc River (the old name of Davao River). At the Talomo Beach, you will see sunken warships during the Second World War, just 200 meters from the shore.

For those who are interested in anything related to Catholic religion, they should go first to the San Pedro Cathedral, one of the oldest churches in Mindanao. The original structure of the church was built in 1847 in honor of St. Peter, the city’s patron saint. The old altar is preserved at the right wing of the cathedral.

At the Shrine Hill in Matina, there’s the Shrine of the Holy Infant Jesus of Prague, a local mecca of the city’s Roman Catholic devotees. At the Buhangin District, you can say your prayer at the Saint Mary of Perpetual Rosary. This is a shrine built in honor of the Blessed Virgin Mary which features series of steps which leads to the main chapel.

Not far from the eagle center is Malagos Garden Resort, which hosts a rich collection of rare indigenous Philippine flora and wide assortment of orchids. Several species of butterflies also thrive in its enclosed sanctuary. Within its area, a bird park has been built to shelter rescued and rehabilitated birds.

Another must-see is the Eden Nature Park, a popular mountain resort. It is situated 3,000 feet above sea level, giving it a cool and moderate climate. It is 95% man-made with pine trees dotting the landscape. It covers 40 hectares worth of developed land.

In addition, try to visit the Davao Crocodile Park at Ma-a diversion road (about 20 minutes from the heart of the city). “The park is an establishment that showcases a state-of-the-art crocodile farming system in the Philippines,” owner Philip ‘Sonny’ Dizon. “It has the most recent crocodile farm design equipped with modern facilities and equipment.”

Actually, the park is more than just a crocodile farm (it has about 700 of them!); it also houses other kinds of animals like wild cats, python, marine turtles, monitor lizard, Philippine deer, monkeys, and various kinds of birds (including ostrich and eagles).

At the heart of the city, People’s Park is fast becoming the often-visited place. Opened in 2007, the P72-million park features many delightful treats for its beholders to discover. Grand landscaped waterfall, strategically scenic benches, a small but fun playground, amazingly breathtaking gardens, arranged multipurpose trees, lovely traditional cottages and sophisticated sculptures created by Kublai Milan (the Dabawenyo artist who created the Freedom statue in front of the Sangguniang Panlungsod building).

Davao also has a number of beaches to offer. Times Beach, two kilometers from the city center, bustles with picnickers during Sundays and holidays. Historic Talomo Beach is best remembered as a landing site for Japanese and American forces during World War II.

Across the strait due east from the mainland is Samal, an unspoiled island ringed with secluded coves of white sand. Five minutes away via pumpboat from barangay Vicente Hizon is the world-class Bluejaz Beach Resort and Waterpark. Known as a famous hotspot for extreme activities such as water slides, wakeboarding, and zipline, it offers guests a very tranquil, relaxing, and enjoyable stay.

For a first class accommodation, try the Pearl Farm Beach Resort. Nestled in a secluded cove some 45 minutes by motor launch off the coast of Davao, it is one of the country’s most up market beach resorts. “This exquisite place in Davao Philippines is what you call paradise on earth,” hailed former tourism secretary Joseph “Ace” Durano.

Fruits are always ripe for the picking in the “fruit basket of the Philippines.” Whether you’ll go for the juiciest watermelon, the sweetest mango, the more succulent pomelo, rambutan, or go subtly fruit ferocious with banana, mangosteen, lanzones, pineapple, avocado, jackfruit, buko, or simply settle with a bowl of fresh fruit salad to end the long list, whatever fibrous or juicy fruits you have in mind, you’ll definitely have your fill in the city. Buy them fresh at the fruit stands in Madrazo, a five-minute walk from Marco Polo Hotel.

If you can’t eat durian fresh, you can drink it as durian cappuccino. Only Blugré Café serves this unique brew of durian and coffee. Other places to visit for coffeeholics are Jose Rafael Fine Coffee, Caffé Firenzo, Roadhouse Café, Prego Café, Kopi Roti, Kasagingan Kapehan, Fagioli Coffee Club, and Basti’s Brew.

Visitors would never go hungry because different grill restaurants are all over the city. To name a few: Hanoi Vietnamese Cuisine in Camus Street; Harana, Mongolian Garden Restaurant, and Sarung Banggi in F. Torres Street; Picobello Ristorante Italiano at the 5 th level in Ilustre’s Gaisano South Citimall; and Swiss Deli and Restaurant and Tsuru Japanese Restaurant and Sushi Bar, both in Lanang.

Davao is known for its inihaw (grilled tuna) and kinilaw (local version of sashimi using tuna or blue marlin strips). These are served in almost all restaurants and even in eateries inside the malls.

Davao City is very accessible. It has regular air, sea, and land linkages to major points in the country. Davao City International Airport serves several flights everyday for passengers coming from and going to Manila (about one hour and 35 minutes away). There are four times weekly flights to Singapore and twice weekly flights to Indonesia (Manado).

Maayong pag-abot!

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