The Threats And Treats of Camiguin

The name “Camiguin” is derived from the native word kamagong, a tree of the Ebony family that thrives near Lake Mainit in Surigao del Norte. The original inhabitants of Camiguin were Manobos, who migrated from Surigao. The old native language in Camiguin is called “Kinamiguin,” which is similar to the dialect spoken in Surigao. 

 “Camiguin is an island of prime treats and primal threats.”  That was what the brochure said of island-province, which is approximately 90 kilometers north of Cagayan de Oro City.  In a way, that was I discovered during my recent visit to the island that was once part of Misamis Oriental.

For one, the province is literally “born of fire” as it has more volcanoes than municipalities.  Camiguin has only five municipalities (Catarman, Guinisiliban, Mahinog, Mambajao, and Sagay) but it has seven volcanoes (Mount Vulcan Daan, Mount Mambajao, Mount Karling, Mount Uhay, Guinisiliban Peak, Tres Marias Mountain, and Mount Hibok-Hibok).  Not surprisingly, though, it has earned the distinction of having the most number of volcanoes per square kilometer than any other island on earth (it has a total land area of 238 square kilometers).

Fortunately, only one volcano is considered active: Mount Hibok-Hibok (which means “that which heaves”).   According to Filipino volcanologists, the said volcano constantly rumbled and smoke from 1948 to 1951.  Some 79 people died when it erupted in 1949 due to landslides.  Two years later, it erupted again.  This, time, however, it unleashed boiling lava, poisonous gases, and landslides enough to destroy nearly 19 squares kilometers of land particularly in Mambajao. All in all, over 3,000 people were killed.

There’s more to the island than volcanoes.  Among locals, the place is known as “the island of  your imagination.” As one tourism official explained: “Camiguin almost defies description. It is a tiny island of lush forests, volcanic splendor, eternal hot and cold natural springs, pristine patches of black and white beaches, majestic waterfalls, exotic marine life, blue-ridge mountains, serene surroundings, idyllic lifestyle; it has a glorious past, and is inhabited with jovial people.  But the truth is, the province is best experienced than described as one gets enchanted by her mystical charm. It really has amazing natural resources and peaceful atmosphere that stir and baffle the minds of everyone.”

While traveling around the island, I was not surprised why the Department of Tourism has identified Camiguin as one of the top 25 tourist destinations in the country.  Indeed, it is a perfect package and a real ecological tourism destination.

One of the province’s tourist attractions is the sunken cemetery.  A huge cross was installed in 1982 to mark the spot where the old cemetery sank when Mount Vulcan Daan erupted in 1871.  Every year, a fluvial procession is held to honor the sunken graves;  islanders bring flowers and candles as an offering to the dead. For those who want to take a closer look, bancas (outrigger canoes) can be rented to take you to the site of the cross.

Another must-see is the Katibawasan Falls, some five kilometers southeast of Mambajao at the foot of Mount Timpoong.   Enclosed by a massive, fern-swathed, granite mountain wall, the waterfall is a sight to behold: a seemingly singular stream of water drops 50 meters from a bulging source without touching the granite wall.  The falls tumble down into a green pool, ideal for a refreshing swim. Giant ferns decorate the surrounding land, carpeting for space with huge trees and dropping vines.

Not to be missed also is the Ardent Hot Springs, a government-run resort located at the foot of still-active Mount Hibok-Hibok.  The place has a four-tiered pool of varying depths and warmth.  The ideal time for swimming is early morning or late afternoon. There are cottages, a restaurant, bar, coffee shop, and dormitory facilities provided for local and foreign tourists.  The resort, with its lush vegetation, offers the serenity and restfulness of quiet and peaceful surroundings.

If history is your thing, there are several centuries-old churches found in various parts of the island. One of the famous churches is Sagay’s Sto. Rosario Church, which was built in 1882.   A famous church located in Baylao is said to be miraculous during the volcanic eruption and claimed to have saved many lives.

Camiguin is known for two activities: Lanzones Festival and Panaad.  Since it was during summer when I visited the island, I wasn’t able to witness these two events.  But I was told that the Lanzones Festival – in honor of the tropical fruit that grows profusely in the island -- is celebrated every year in October with a weekend of street dancing, parade and pageants in the town of Mambajao. This festival includes an exhibit of agri-cottage industry products, barangay beautification, indigenous sports, tableau of local culture, and grand parade of the lanzones.

During Holy Week, religious devotees from all over Mindanao and the Visayas go around the island on foot for two days and nights as part of Panaad (literally means “promise”).  They start walking the minute they step out of the ferry boat in the Benoni pier, going northwards through Mambajao, until they reach the Stations of the Cross on the slopes of Mount Vulcan Daan.  In climbing up the mountain, they go through each of the life-size statues depicting the 14 stations of the crucifixion of Jesus Christ which are interspaced from each other.

Truly, Camiguin is a dream island.  It is a place where you can simply revel in the marvels of nature without too many artificial distractions.

The main mode of transportation in the island is the jeepney.  You can ride one with other paying passengers going to a particular destination.  Or you can rent one jeepney for a day at a hefty price, but that includes the driver’s services and gasoline, too.

Going around the island’s 64-kilometer circumferential road on a motorbike is sheer fun – and highly recommended by locals.  Motorbikes may be rented at reasonable prices in the capital town of Mambajao.

To get to Camiguin, you to travel from your place (in my case, Davao) to Balingoan, Misamis Oriental.  You can take any of the hourly scheduled ferries (from 6 in the morning to 5 in the afternoon) across the channels of Mindanao Sea, which dock in either ports of Guinsiliban or Benoni.  If you take the Benoni port, travel time is about one hour.

Camiguin is accessible by air and sea from Cebu City; but trips are limited only. Most fly in to Cagayan de Oro City, which is 84 kilometers away from the port of Balingoan. 

For those who would like to take their own vehicles to Camiguin, some of the ferryboats at Balingoan Port can transport cars, pick-ups, vans, and even large trucks to the Benoni Port.  However, a number of fees have to be paid to transport these vehicles. -- ###

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Discovering The Placid Lake Sebu

Text and Photos by Henrylito D. Tacio
Additional Photos by James Michael N. Montaño

“Lake Sebu is a beautiful inland sea on the island of Mindanao and is nested into the southern highlands at an altitude of almost 300 meters (984 feet). Lake Sebu is surrounded by rolling hills and forested mountains and is home to the T’boli, a highland tribe famous for their colorful costumes, intricate beadwork, woven work and brass ornaments.” That was the impression of an American who visited the place some years back.

But that’s going ahead of the story. Located in South Cotabato, Lake Sebu is often dubbed the “summer capital of Southern Philippines” as its climate is pleasantly cool (due to an elevation of 1,000 meters high from sea level). At night, the temperature gets cold and is pleasurable for those who seek the highlands and mountain feel.

But what makes Lake Sebu tick among visitors? Well, let me count the ways. For one, the town is an ancestral domain of the indigenous T’bolis. According to legends, they were descendants of the survivors of a great flood. A man named Dwata warned the people of an impending great flood. But the tribe refused to listen, except for two couples, La Bebe and La Lomi, and Tamfeles and La Kagef. Dwata told them to take shelter in a bamboo so huge they could fit inside and in this way survive the flood. The first couple was the ancestors of the T’bolis and other highland ethnic groups. The second couple descended the other Filipino indigenous groups.

The T’bolis are noted for their t’nalak, a sacred cloth made from abaca which is exchanged during marriages and used as a cover during births. “The T’boli t’nalak is distinctive for its overall tie-dyed design patterns laid on the entire surface of the cloth,” hailed the National Commission for Culture and Arts (NCAA). “The highly stylized repetitive patterns depicting amphibious forms and plant elements pulsate in rhythmic cadence in definite hues of rust red, deep brown, and satin black against the light sepia hue of the abaca fiber.”

One of the famous dreamweavers, as T’boli weavers as known since the tribal designs are derived from a dream, is Lang Dulay. Only 12 when she first learned how to weave, she was chosen by the NCAA as one of the two Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan recipients in 1998 (the other was the late Salinta Monon of Bansalan, Davao del Sur).

A trip to Lake Sebu is not complete without going to the T’boli Museum. In the museum, which is actually a T’boli house, you see colorful costumes, bead accessories, brass made products and other souvenir items. You also get a glimpse of the clay pots used by T’bolis in cooking their food. You can even play the musical instruments – if you know how!

Aside from T’bolis, Lake Sebu is also home of the Tasadays, the cave-dwelling and primitive, stone-age tribe that lived in isolation in high caves of the primary rain forest area. It is for this reason that the Department of Environment and Natural Resources has recognized the claim of both tribes that the lake and its surroundings are under their ancestral domain.

But one of the reasons why people flock to this place is due to its three beautiful lakes. The biggest among them all is the 354-hectare Lake Sebu (from which the name of the town got its name). The two other lakes are named Seloton (48 hectares) and Lahit (24 hectares).

It’s only in the biggest lake where you can watch magnificent panoramic views of sunrise and sunset. The kaleidoscopic scenery and incandescent light in this picturesque place, surrounded by serene waters, make it a photographer’s paradise.

During early morning or early evening, when the coldness can be felt, fogs rise above the lake. In some instances, according to have witness the phenomenon; the fogs drape the lake, making the large body of water totally invisible.

It is not clear how water is fed into the lakes, but the overflow cascades down a flight of seven waterfalls, one of its several outflows. These falls are spectacular and will remind you of the power of nature. However, only two are accessible; the others have yet to have access trails.

Going to the upper portion, in first waterfall, you have to ride a habal-habal (a motor bike with an extended back seat to accommodate up to 4 other passengers) to get there. The first one is considered a block type of waterfall, owing to huge water that comes from the biggest lake. The rapid gush and fall of waters from some 40 feet above makes traversing the river dangerous near the area where the falling water hits.

You have to take a short hike to reach the second waterfall, which is a plunge type. Going down may take your breath away, but once you see the second waterfall you will be totally mesmerized by its beauty -- as it has a height of more than 100 feet. Even from a distance, the fall is magnificent! The very small tributary from the top is almost inconspicuous but the rapids and the falling water from 80 feet is just too astounding.

The waterfall’s location is also mind boggling. It looks like it was actually etched like a crater in a mountain side with different layers of rock representing geological times clearly lined up in the in the overhang.

For those who do not like to trek, you can ride the 700-meter zipline from the first waterfall to the fifth waterfall. To return, you have to take the 400-meter zip from fifth waterfall to second waterfall. My friend Jose Rey L. Subaldo, who accompanied me during the visit, said: “The amazing thing about the zipline is you get to see the awesome view on top of the waterfalls.”

If zipline is not your thing of extreme adventure, then you can always return and try the cable car. Ramon Ponce de Leon, the provincial government officer, told a local daily that an investor has initiated talks with the provincial government “on their intention to operate cable car tours at the Seven Falls.”

Seeing the waterfalls may be magnificent, but the highlight of the town is taking a boat ride around the placid lake. For P400, you could hire a motor boat good for 8-10 persons in addition to your personal tour guide and boat man. During the boat tour, you get a glimpse of shoreline houses, the numerous tilapia farms, and people doing fishing. Don’t miss to see the inhabited Isla Grande (which looks like a sleeping crocodile from a distance).

So, what else you can do while in Lake Sebu? If you’re a biodiversity enthusiast, Lake Sebu should be one of your ultimate destinations. Wild boars and Philippine deer, both considered endangered animals, live around the lake. The lake and the surrounding rainforest are natural habitat to egrets, kingfishers, swallows, herons, Philippine cockatoos, and kites. If you are lucky enough, you might also see an endangered tarsier near the lush forests of seven waterfalls.

There are good resorts in town, with guided boat tours, recreational facilities and hotel accommodation. Among them, Punta Isla Lake Resort tops as it has a good view of the lake. Also, it is the only resort which has a floating restaurant. Imagine the cool weather, the breathtaking views, and the freshly grilled tilapia, which are raised in cages at the lake. Other tilapia delicacies they served include chicharon tilapia, tilapia foyong, tilapia rebusado, tilapora, kinilaw na tilapia, nilasing na tilapia, pinaputok na tilapia, and daing na tilapia.

How do you get to Lake Sebu? Well, there are flights from Manila to General Santos City (about three and a half hours by bus from Davao City). At the bus terminal, take bus bound for Koronadal City (often referred to as Marbel, its old name) and get off at the Koronadal bus station. The trip is about 45 minutes. From Koronadal, take the Yellow Bus to the town of Surralah (about 38 minutes). From Surralah, take a jeep to Lake Sebu (about 43 minutes). -- ###

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Davao City: The Gateway to Mindanao

From islands to highlands – that’s what awaits anyone who comes to Davao City. The center of trade and commerce in Mindanao, it is also the hub of tourist attractions and activities. Its typhoon-free weather, warm and hospitable people, and mouth-watering foods make Davao the perfect holiday spot for the entire family.

Davao is one of the world’s largest cities in terms of land area, occupying more than 2,400 square kilometers. It has a resident population of 1.3 million, who speak mostly Bisaya (the national language comes second). English is the medium of instruction in schools and is widely understood and spoken especially in the business community.

Davao is known for its three icons: durian, waling-waling, and Philippine eagle. Controversial durian, which “smells like hell but tastes like heaven,” abounds almost all-year round throughout the city. Endangered waling-waling can be viewed at Malagos Garden Resort in Calinan district (some 45 minutes ride from the heart of the city). Going up further, about five minutes, you can get a glimpse of the country’s national bird at the Philippine Eagle Center.

What are the other things you see while in Davao? If history is your thing, there’s the Battle Memorial, a historical marker of the longest-fought battle between the troops of the American and Filipino forces and of the Japanese Imperial Army which took place in Mintal, Tugbok.

In Calinan, there is a museum that features historical accounts of the Japanese community residing in Davao before and during the war. You can see various artifacts, including tools which they used in the abaca plantations, currencies, and publications.

Along San Pedro Street, you can visit Camp Domingo Leonor, which happened to be the quarters of the Spanish and later American soldiers in the 1920s. At the junction of Washington Street and Quimpo Boulevard, you can get a glimpse of site of the bastion of the Muslim hero Datu Bago who lorded over the Tagloc River (the old name of Davao River). At the Talomo Beach, you will see sunken warships during the Second World War, just 200 meters from the shore.

For those who are interested in anything related to Catholic religion, they should go first to the San Pedro Cathedral, one of the oldest churches in Mindanao. The original structure of the church was built in 1847 in honor of St. Peter, the city’s patron saint. The old altar is preserved at the right wing of the cathedral.

At the Shrine Hill in Matina, there’s the Shrine of the Holy Infant Jesus of Prague, a local mecca of the city’s Roman Catholic devotees. At the Buhangin District, you can say your prayer at the Saint Mary of Perpetual Rosary. This is a shrine built in honor of the Blessed Virgin Mary which features series of steps which leads to the main chapel.

Not far from the eagle center is Malagos Garden Resort, which hosts a rich collection of rare indigenous Philippine flora and wide assortment of orchids. Several species of butterflies also thrive in its enclosed sanctuary. Within its area, a bird park has been built to shelter rescued and rehabilitated birds.

Another must-see is the Eden Nature Park, a popular mountain resort. It is situated 3,000 feet above sea level, giving it a cool and moderate climate. It is 95% man-made with pine trees dotting the landscape. It covers 40 hectares worth of developed land.

In addition, try to visit the Davao Crocodile Park at Ma-a diversion road (about 20 minutes from the heart of the city). “The park is an establishment that showcases a state-of-the-art crocodile farming system in the Philippines,” owner Philip ‘Sonny’ Dizon. “It has the most recent crocodile farm design equipped with modern facilities and equipment.”

Actually, the park is more than just a crocodile farm (it has about 700 of them!); it also houses other kinds of animals like wild cats, python, marine turtles, monitor lizard, Philippine deer, monkeys, and various kinds of birds (including ostrich and eagles).

At the heart of the city, People’s Park is fast becoming the often-visited place. Opened in 2007, the P72-million park features many delightful treats for its beholders to discover. Grand landscaped waterfall, strategically scenic benches, a small but fun playground, amazingly breathtaking gardens, arranged multipurpose trees, lovely traditional cottages and sophisticated sculptures created by Kublai Milan (the Dabawenyo artist who created the Freedom statue in front of the Sangguniang Panlungsod building).

Davao also has a number of beaches to offer. Times Beach, two kilometers from the city center, bustles with picnickers during Sundays and holidays. Historic Talomo Beach is best remembered as a landing site for Japanese and American forces during World War II.

Across the strait due east from the mainland is Samal, an unspoiled island ringed with secluded coves of white sand. Five minutes away via pumpboat from barangay Vicente Hizon is the world-class Bluejaz Beach Resort and Waterpark. Known as a famous hotspot for extreme activities such as water slides, wakeboarding, and zipline, it offers guests a very tranquil, relaxing, and enjoyable stay.

For a first class accommodation, try the Pearl Farm Beach Resort. Nestled in a secluded cove some 45 minutes by motor launch off the coast of Davao, it is one of the country’s most up market beach resorts. “This exquisite place in Davao Philippines is what you call paradise on earth,” hailed former tourism secretary Joseph “Ace” Durano.

Fruits are always ripe for the picking in the “fruit basket of the Philippines.” Whether you’ll go for the juiciest watermelon, the sweetest mango, the more succulent pomelo, rambutan, or go subtly fruit ferocious with banana, mangosteen, lanzones, pineapple, avocado, jackfruit, buko, or simply settle with a bowl of fresh fruit salad to end the long list, whatever fibrous or juicy fruits you have in mind, you’ll definitely have your fill in the city. Buy them fresh at the fruit stands in Madrazo, a five-minute walk from Marco Polo Hotel.

If you can’t eat durian fresh, you can drink it as durian cappuccino. Only Blugré Café serves this unique brew of durian and coffee. Other places to visit for coffeeholics are Jose Rafael Fine Coffee, Caffé Firenzo, Roadhouse Café, Prego Café, Kopi Roti, Kasagingan Kapehan, Fagioli Coffee Club, and Basti’s Brew.

Visitors would never go hungry because different grill restaurants are all over the city. To name a few: Hanoi Vietnamese Cuisine in Camus Street; Harana, Mongolian Garden Restaurant, and Sarung Banggi in F. Torres Street; Picobello Ristorante Italiano at the 5 th level in Ilustre’s Gaisano South Citimall; and Swiss Deli and Restaurant and Tsuru Japanese Restaurant and Sushi Bar, both in Lanang.

Davao is known for its inihaw (grilled tuna) and kinilaw (local version of sashimi using tuna or blue marlin strips). These are served in almost all restaurants and even in eateries inside the malls.

Davao City is very accessible. It has regular air, sea, and land linkages to major points in the country. Davao City International Airport serves several flights everyday for passengers coming from and going to Manila (about one hour and 35 minutes away). There are four times weekly flights to Singapore and twice weekly flights to Indonesia (Manado).

Maayong pag-abot!

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Skimboarding In Mati

Mati, the capital of Davao Oriental, is known for its “sleeping dinosaur” (visible upon passing the eight-kilometer winding road of barangay Badas), extra-white Provincial Capitol (nestled on the hilltop overlooking Pujada Bay), and white-sand beaches with crystal clear blue waters.

But not too many people know that Mati is also famous for its skimboarding competition.  This was what my two friends – Dr. Dante Comedido and Armand Mortejo (who works for a beach resort in Samal) – discovered during their recent visit to the town that is 165 kilometers away from Davao City.

Actually, we were there for the Sambuokan Festival. But since we were there already, we decided to watch the Mati Annual Skimboarding Challenge. “Sure, I would love to see it,” said Doc Dante.  Armand agreed.

The day after we arrived in Mati, it was raining. But the weather did not deter us to go to Dahican Beach, about 15 minutes away from the heart of the town. The beach is noted for its crystal clear blue waters and a 7-kilometer pure and white sand shore. You have to pass over rough roads before reaching the beach. The good thing is that there is no entrance fee and it is open to anyone – whether locals or foreigners.
Dahican Beach was the venue of the skimboarding competition. About 40 young and adult skimboarders participated in the event. There were 12 players from General Santos City, 11 from Mati (mostly from Dahican), seven from Surigao del Sur, four from Davao City, three from Leyte, two from Iligan City, and one from Tagum City.

Some of the contenders were wondering whether Dahican Beach is the Skimboarding Capital of Mindanao.  “There are several reasons why it should be called as such,” says Richard L. Villacorte, the endearing municipal administrator.  “For one, our sand here is white unlike others which are dark or black. For another, the water is pristine and blue crystal. But most importantly, the waves are what skimboarders are looking for – not so tall and not too short.”

Jema Flora, a skimboarder from General Santos City, agrees. “The waves here are great, compared to what we have in Sarangani, where we practice skimboarding,” he says.

The skimboarding competition had two categories: champion and advance. Although we were there only for the day’s elimination rounds, we found out later on who emerged winners. Thanks to Dashiel Indelible, Jr., the handsome municipal tourism officer who hosted out visit.

According to Indelible, Sonny Boy “Bayogyog” Aporbo, who is from Mati, took the top prize in the champion category, bringing home the P12,000 cash prize and the coveted Mayor’s cup. First runner up was Leyte’s Roberto Yanuari, Jr., while Mati’s Rodel Patawi was second runner-up and General Santos City’s Jema Flora was third runner-up.

In the advance category, Jigo Missiona from Surigao was declared winner of the P5,000 cash prize and was also given a trophy. Davao’s Glenn Donaire settled for the first runner-up. Mati’s Jaspher Consigna and Surigao’s Jesus Ortiz won the second runner-up and third runner-up, respectively.

For the information of the uninformed, skimboarding – also known as skimming or skiffle boarding – is a boardsport in which a skimboard is used to ride on an incoming wave.  A sleeker version of a surfboard, a typical skimboard is made of smoothed marine plywood and fiberglass. The estimated weight is six kilograms since it does not require much buoyancy.

“Unlike surfing,” Wikipedia explains, “skimboarding begins on the beach, with the skimboarder running and dropping their board onto the thin wash of previous waves. They use their momentum to ‘skim’ out to breaking waves, which they then catch back into shore in a manner similar to surfing.”

Another aspect of skimboarding is the so-called “flatland” which involves performing tricks derived from skateboarding on the wash of waves without catching shorebreaks.

Today, this extreme water sport is already popular in the United States, Canada, Australia, Spain, China, Malaysia, Japan, and Singapore. In the Philippines, skimboarding was first introduced in Tanauan, Leyte, which has earned the title as the Skimboarding Capital of the Philippines.

As skimboarding elimination was held, Armand, Doc Dante, and myself were talking with George “Jun” Plaza.  He is the man behind the Amihan Surf and Skim Team, a group of young boys that teach surfing and skimboarding to visitors or interested individuals who come to Dahican Beach.

Jun also acts as the guardian of the skimboarders and surfers, known as Amihan Boys. The word “Amihan” comes from the northeasterly winds that blow through the country from November to March. “These winds create powerful waves which are perfect for skimboarding and surfing,” Jun claims.

Jun urged us the three of us to learn how to surf. I told him I did that when I was at the Tybee Beach in Savannah, Georgia some years back. “I had enough of that already,” I told him.

Armand and Doc Dante, on the other hand, were hesitant – at first! But Jun won’t take no for an answer. So, Armand finally relented.
 
About twenty minutes later, Doc Dante suddenly gave his camera, car key and cellphone to me. “Where are you going?” I inquired.  He replied, “I want to learn also how to surf. Since I am already here, why not take the chance?”

I was left alone – taking photos of them having fun.
 
“It’s addictive,” Armand points out.  “Once you start, you want to learn – fast.  You want to ride the waves.   But it’s too hard for me to stand.  I have to learn first the tricks before I can really surf.”

“Surfing is tiresome.  For someone like my age,” says 37-year-old Doc Dante, “I think I have to pass this kind of sports. This is very good for the teenagers and younger generations.”
 
Both Armand and Doc Dante have one thing in common: they will return to Mati one of these days to enjoy the beauty of the scenic spots and mesmerizing beaches of the town.
 
Mati is accessible by land and sea transportation, with Davao City as the entry point. Vans for hire are readily at Villa Victoria Terminal in Bajada and commuter buses regularly leave the Ecoland Bus Terminal every 30 minutes.

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