Discovering The Placid Lake Sebu

Text and Photos by Henrylito D. Tacio
Additional Photos by James Michael N. Montaño

“Lake Sebu is a beautiful inland sea on the island of Mindanao and is nested into the southern highlands at an altitude of almost 300 meters (984 feet). Lake Sebu is surrounded by rolling hills and forested mountains and is home to the T’boli, a highland tribe famous for their colorful costumes, intricate beadwork, woven work and brass ornaments.” That was the impression of an American who visited the place some years back.

But that’s going ahead of the story. Located in South Cotabato, Lake Sebu is often dubbed the “summer capital of Southern Philippines” as its climate is pleasantly cool (due to an elevation of 1,000 meters high from sea level). At night, the temperature gets cold and is pleasurable for those who seek the highlands and mountain feel.

But what makes Lake Sebu tick among visitors? Well, let me count the ways. For one, the town is an ancestral domain of the indigenous T’bolis. According to legends, they were descendants of the survivors of a great flood. A man named Dwata warned the people of an impending great flood. But the tribe refused to listen, except for two couples, La Bebe and La Lomi, and Tamfeles and La Kagef. Dwata told them to take shelter in a bamboo so huge they could fit inside and in this way survive the flood. The first couple was the ancestors of the T’bolis and other highland ethnic groups. The second couple descended the other Filipino indigenous groups.

The T’bolis are noted for their t’nalak, a sacred cloth made from abaca which is exchanged during marriages and used as a cover during births. “The T’boli t’nalak is distinctive for its overall tie-dyed design patterns laid on the entire surface of the cloth,” hailed the National Commission for Culture and Arts (NCAA). “The highly stylized repetitive patterns depicting amphibious forms and plant elements pulsate in rhythmic cadence in definite hues of rust red, deep brown, and satin black against the light sepia hue of the abaca fiber.”

One of the famous dreamweavers, as T’boli weavers as known since the tribal designs are derived from a dream, is Lang Dulay. Only 12 when she first learned how to weave, she was chosen by the NCAA as one of the two Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan recipients in 1998 (the other was the late Salinta Monon of Bansalan, Davao del Sur).

A trip to Lake Sebu is not complete without going to the T’boli Museum. In the museum, which is actually a T’boli house, you see colorful costumes, bead accessories, brass made products and other souvenir items. You also get a glimpse of the clay pots used by T’bolis in cooking their food. You can even play the musical instruments – if you know how!

Aside from T’bolis, Lake Sebu is also home of the Tasadays, the cave-dwelling and primitive, stone-age tribe that lived in isolation in high caves of the primary rain forest area. It is for this reason that the Department of Environment and Natural Resources has recognized the claim of both tribes that the lake and its surroundings are under their ancestral domain.

But one of the reasons why people flock to this place is due to its three beautiful lakes. The biggest among them all is the 354-hectare Lake Sebu (from which the name of the town got its name). The two other lakes are named Seloton (48 hectares) and Lahit (24 hectares).

It’s only in the biggest lake where you can watch magnificent panoramic views of sunrise and sunset. The kaleidoscopic scenery and incandescent light in this picturesque place, surrounded by serene waters, make it a photographer’s paradise.

During early morning or early evening, when the coldness can be felt, fogs rise above the lake. In some instances, according to have witness the phenomenon; the fogs drape the lake, making the large body of water totally invisible.

It is not clear how water is fed into the lakes, but the overflow cascades down a flight of seven waterfalls, one of its several outflows. These falls are spectacular and will remind you of the power of nature. However, only two are accessible; the others have yet to have access trails.

Going to the upper portion, in first waterfall, you have to ride a habal-habal (a motor bike with an extended back seat to accommodate up to 4 other passengers) to get there. The first one is considered a block type of waterfall, owing to huge water that comes from the biggest lake. The rapid gush and fall of waters from some 40 feet above makes traversing the river dangerous near the area where the falling water hits.

You have to take a short hike to reach the second waterfall, which is a plunge type. Going down may take your breath away, but once you see the second waterfall you will be totally mesmerized by its beauty -- as it has a height of more than 100 feet. Even from a distance, the fall is magnificent! The very small tributary from the top is almost inconspicuous but the rapids and the falling water from 80 feet is just too astounding.

The waterfall’s location is also mind boggling. It looks like it was actually etched like a crater in a mountain side with different layers of rock representing geological times clearly lined up in the in the overhang.

For those who do not like to trek, you can ride the 700-meter zipline from the first waterfall to the fifth waterfall. To return, you have to take the 400-meter zip from fifth waterfall to second waterfall. My friend Jose Rey L. Subaldo, who accompanied me during the visit, said: “The amazing thing about the zipline is you get to see the awesome view on top of the waterfalls.”

If zipline is not your thing of extreme adventure, then you can always return and try the cable car. Ramon Ponce de Leon, the provincial government officer, told a local daily that an investor has initiated talks with the provincial government “on their intention to operate cable car tours at the Seven Falls.”

Seeing the waterfalls may be magnificent, but the highlight of the town is taking a boat ride around the placid lake. For P400, you could hire a motor boat good for 8-10 persons in addition to your personal tour guide and boat man. During the boat tour, you get a glimpse of shoreline houses, the numerous tilapia farms, and people doing fishing. Don’t miss to see the inhabited Isla Grande (which looks like a sleeping crocodile from a distance).

So, what else you can do while in Lake Sebu? If you’re a biodiversity enthusiast, Lake Sebu should be one of your ultimate destinations. Wild boars and Philippine deer, both considered endangered animals, live around the lake. The lake and the surrounding rainforest are natural habitat to egrets, kingfishers, swallows, herons, Philippine cockatoos, and kites. If you are lucky enough, you might also see an endangered tarsier near the lush forests of seven waterfalls.

There are good resorts in town, with guided boat tours, recreational facilities and hotel accommodation. Among them, Punta Isla Lake Resort tops as it has a good view of the lake. Also, it is the only resort which has a floating restaurant. Imagine the cool weather, the breathtaking views, and the freshly grilled tilapia, which are raised in cages at the lake. Other tilapia delicacies they served include chicharon tilapia, tilapia foyong, tilapia rebusado, tilapora, kinilaw na tilapia, nilasing na tilapia, pinaputok na tilapia, and daing na tilapia.

How do you get to Lake Sebu? Well, there are flights from Manila to General Santos City (about three and a half hours by bus from Davao City). At the bus terminal, take bus bound for Koronadal City (often referred to as Marbel, its old name) and get off at the Koronadal bus station. The trip is about 45 minutes. From Koronadal, take the Yellow Bus to the town of Surralah (about 38 minutes). From Surralah, take a jeep to Lake Sebu (about 43 minutes). -- ###